Tips for Impressive Cell Phone Photos
Cell phones and digital cameras have made photographers out of everyone. Technology has certainly taken most of the learning curve out of the craft. It used to be that you had to learn things like shutter speeds and aperture settings, exposure and reciprocity. Now all you have to do is point and shoot and the camera does the rest. That doesn’t mean that all photographers are created equal. A good photographer can take a fantastic photo with a cell phone or an oatmeal box pinhole camera. The vast majority of those taking pictures are by no means photographers. Most people take crappy photos. Trust me. I’ve studied this for over 30 years. This does not mean that all is lost. With a little instruction and some trial and error anyone can learn to take a great shot.
Let’s say you have a company, or that you represent a group that has a social media presence. If you are social media savvy at all, by now you have realized that anything you post on Facebook with a photo is going to generate more interest than a post without a photo. The same goes if you post something with a really good photo – you will get even more looks, likes and shares than if you used a bad photo. In this blog we will give you a few tips that will allow you to get really great shots and that will mean that more people will look at your posts.
Let’s start with the distance between you and your subject. Most people want to keep their distance from their subjects. It is almost as if they want to stand in the background and not be seen. That doesn’t work very well. Don’t be afraid. Be bold. Get right up there, fill your frame with your subject or subjects, and take a photo that doesn’t show the ceiling, the floor and all the rest of what is in the room that has nothing to do with your photo. Sure you can crop afterward, but that means you are enlarging a small part of the photo. This translates into a soft or noisy image. Stop thinking of your phone’s zoom feature as a tool to use while taking the photo. Whenever possible, walk up to your subject and fill the frame of your camera. This one tip will change your life forever.


Next, decide if the shot should be vertical (up and down) or horizontal (side to side). I like to shoot a vertical if I am shooting one or two people and I want to fill the frame with them. Verticals are great for waist up, knees up or full length. Groups of three or more usually cause me to shoot horizontal. What you are trying to do here is fill your frame with only what you want to see. That doesn’t mean that you always have to follow this suggestion. Sometimes I like to shoot one person horizontally from the chest up, place them to one side, and allow the other side to fill the space. This is good if you want to show the subject’s surrounding area.
Just a couple more things and you will be well on your way. Hold your camera – phone level at all times when photographing people. Aiming up will make them look tall and aiming down will make them look short. Shoot straight ahead. Chest level is usually a good spot from which to shoot. One last thing. If the exposure on your phone is too dark or too light, try touching the part of the picture that you are concerned about. By doing this your camera will change the exposure automatically. You can also tweak your final photos with the editing software that comes with your phone.








What is a green screen? It’s a wonderful production tool that has been around for some time. It allows you to place people and objects, real or imagined, into environments that may also be real or imagined. Used properly, it can transport you to worlds, or help to achieve shots that would either be impossible, too dangerous, or flat out too expensive to achieve in any other way. Used improperly, well, let’s just say that it can provide a cheese factor to a production that would embarrass even the Cheetos Cheetah. Unfortunately, green screening is one of those techniques that I see misused the most, especially in advertising. How many times have you seen a local business owner green screened badly into a shot of the front of their own business? If you’ve seen it once, it’s already too much. Shooting such a scene for real is not only quite practical, but it would also look much better.
By the age of 18, my dad worked his way up to scale operator in the scrap metal part of the yard. This was the most coveted job in the whole junk yard. People would give the scale man gifts, little favors in hopes that he would weigh their loads a little heavier than they actually were so that they could get more money. It was not uncommon for a scale man to fake the load weight and then demand part of the over payment as a kickback. My dad decided he wasn’t going to do that. Even at 18 he was no pushover. He made it clear from day one that he would accept no gifts and everyone would get a fair weight.
Both factors depend on the concept or idea that needs to be executed. If your project needs to look like Star Wars, it’s a safe bet that time and resources, and therefore costs, will be much higher than say, shooting a 30-second monologue in a studio against a white backdrop. I’ve personally encountered many creative ways for pricing production, from flat fees to all-inclusive, per minute rates. Most of these methods are problematic, as pricing a project based on final run time has no basis in reality, and nearly always fails to accurately account for time and resources. I could shoot a client talking for 30 seconds in front of a white wall. I could also recreate that client in 3D as an avatar and let the avatar speak the same 30 seconds of material. Both ads are 30 seconds in length and have the same message, but the cost of the second version is going to be much higher than the first, based on the time needed to create it. This is where I offer free advice. If anyone can confidently tell you that 30 seconds costs X, and 60 seconds costs Y, and 10 minutes costs Z…RUN! Run far and fast in the opposite direction. At best, flat fees limit what can be done for you. At worst, you overpay for inferior work. You’ve been warned!
Sixteen was the age of my first tattoo experience. But as bad as that sun and moon (with some Thomas the Train-esk features) may have turned out, I was hooked. I enjoy all types of tattoos, my personal collection is an array of milestones in my life, moments that I never want to forget or reminders of people who have influenced my life in remarkable ways. Being able to express the type of person I am and what I believe in through art is who I am. Tattoos don’t just help me express my personality, they help me define it.
Now trying to decide whether to ink or not to ink, that is definitely a personal preference. I would suggest researching different parlors and, obviously, the artists. They have a saying in the industry – cheap tattoos are no good and good tattoos are not cheap. These are words to live by and if you want a lasting beautiful piece most definitely do your research. A lot of times if you have an idea of what you want, go to the artists and give them a concept, print off the styles that you personally like and let them be the artist. They will do their best work if you give them room to do what they do best, tattoos.



